Hackberry portal Forum HACKberry Q&A Assembling

This topic contains 69 replies, has 13 voices, and was last updated by  EW CHEE GUAN 4 years, 3 months ago.

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  • #149

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    I uploaded the video of assembling HACKberry’s wrist unit to YouTube.

    Please use it as reference.

    #150

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    I uploaded the video of assembling HACKberry’s index finger to YouTube.

    #151

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    I uploaded the video of assembling HACKberry’s battery door lock to YouTube.

    #152

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    I uploaded the video of assembling HACKberry’s battery holder to YouTube.

    #162

    Cameron Norris
    Participant

    Hi Hiroshi, these videos are really useful.
    I have been preparing to print the STL’s and the design is absolutely beautiful!

    #163

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Thanks Cameron, I will add other parts in the near term.
    I also looking forward to see your print report!

    #167

    MoldiTux Tuxtepec
    Participant

    Thanks for videos. I will wait for the next videos

    #168

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    I uploaded the video of assembling HACKberry’s other fingers to YouTube.
    >MoldiTux
    Hi, sorry to have kept you waiting.

    #170

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    I uploaded the video of assembling HACKberry’s hand unit to YouTube.
    This is the last assembling video for now.
    If you have any requests or questions, please post here.

    #174

    Iago Cunha
    Participant

    Hi Hiroshi. First congratulations for your great job! The hand is amazing! I would like to ask you about the material you use to make it. I’m using ABS plastic on my 3D printer, but I think that it doesn’t have the same shape. Also, could you post the metal parts that you use specially in the fingers? Thank you so much!

    #182

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Hi Iago, sorry for late reply.
    I usually use ABS plastic but used Nylon parts in this movie (I had a chance to use SLS printer at that time).
    I also want to answer your question that was send via e-mail.

    – How many motors did you use on the HACKberry and what type of motors did you use.

    I used 3 motors. One is S03N[https://www.pololu.com/product/693]
    and others are ASV-15MG[http://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B00M9VMPBK].
    You can use MG90S[http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006VRWV1W] as a substitution for ASV-15MG.
    Please see the BOM[https://github.com/exiii/HACKberry/blob/master/HACKberry-hardware/HACKberry_BOM_v1.xlsx]

    – Does the fingers have independent movements?

    Thumb, index finger and middle finger can move independently.
    Ring and little finger are coupled with middle finger mechanically.

    – Can I use EMG signals to realize the movements?

    You can access Arduino Micro via USB micro connector or can access analog input pin using audio connector.
    Please see the schematic[https://github.com/exiii/HACKberry/blob/master/HACKberry-hardware/electronics/HandBoard_v1/HandBoard_v1.pdf].

    – How did you divide the motors for each finger movement?

    We are using a linkage mechanism for that purpose.

    #183

    Hi Hiroshi,
    I’m starting to print some of the parts to test the feasibility of making this for a friend of mine who lost his hand. I have three questions:
    a) For the large motor, you list the S03N from Pololu, however that motor has been discontinued. Do you have a recommendation for another?
    b) Would it be possible for you to put together a kit that would include all of the fasteners (screws), bearings, and springs (and whatever other pieces) and have it for sale? The reason I ask this is because finding metric screws, springs, and bearings here in the United States is rather hard. In inch sizes it’s relatively easy, but not metric. I suppose I can try and find equivalent ones, but I’m just curious what the possibilities are here.
    And lastly, c) where can we get the shield that’s listed in the BOM file?

    #184

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Hi Ashley,

    I’m starting to print some of the parts to test the feasibility of making this for a friend of mine who lost his hand.

    Great! We will help your project.

    a) For the large motor, you list the S03N from Pololu, however that motor has been discontinued. Do you have a recommendation for another?

    Sorry, I didn’t realize that the motor has been discontinued.
    The requirements of the large motor are
    (Must)
    -Operating travel is more than 140 degree.
    -Standard size(approximately 39.5 x 20.0 x 39.6 mm).
    -Circular servo horn(approximately 20mm in diameter) is included
    (Want)
    -Ball bearing
    -Metal gear
    -Not so strong(When I used 16.3kg-cm serevo, index finger and gear were broken easily. S03N is 4.0 kg-cm.)

    Although I didn’t tested yet, I think 3001HB[https://www.pololu.com/product/1058] can be used as a substitution.

    b) Would it be possible for you to put together a kit that would include all of the fasteners (screws), bearings, and springs (and whatever other pieces) and have it for sale?

    Sorry, we can’t deal with it for now. I will find substitutions which you can buy in the United States.

    c) where can we get the shield that’s listed in the BOM file?

    For now, you have to make it.
    This board is not so complex. You can make it using universal board and lead wire.
    This is our prototype(very rough..).


    Moreover, I’m preparing the data for a circuit board plotter.

    #187

    Ok, thanks. No worries on the parts. I’ll see what I can do and if I can’t source the metric parts, I may just have to adjust the Inventor files and make minor adjustments for inch sizes. Shouldn’t be too hard to accomplish the same thing.

    As for the shield, if you can provide an EagleCAD schematic of what the connections are, that would be very helpful. I can design my own custom board from that.

    One thing that I’m still confused about is, I’ve seen videos where the hand is interacting with a mobile app that shows the electrical signals. However, I’m not seeing that app anywhere. Is it even necessary? Is it used for adjusting the signals, or just to show what it can do?

    #194

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    I’ll see what I can do and if I can’t source the metric parts, I may just have to adjust the Inventor files and make minor adjustments for inch sizes.

    If you can do so, that will be very helpful. Thanks!

    if you can provide an EagleCAD schematic of what the connections are, that would be very helpful.

    I’m sorry. I’m using Kicad and don’t know how to export the data for eagle.
    However, you can see the schematic(pdf). Please see this file.
    https://github.com/exiii/HACKberry/blob/master/HACKberry-hardware/electronics/HandBoard_v1/HandBoard_v1.pdf

    You can also download the board outline(dxf) from here.
    https://github.com/exiii/HACKberry/blob/master/HACKberry-hardware/electronics/HandBoard_v1/HandBoard_v1_outline01.dxf

    I’ve seen videos where the hand is interacting with a mobile app that shows the electrical signals. However, I’m not seeing that app anywhere.

    Sorry to confuse you. That was previous model. HACKberry doesn’t use EMG and a mobile app. I just uploaded the video about sensor system of HACKberry. As you see, the finger is controlled by the muscle and the muscle movement is measured by IR sensor.

    #205

    Aha! Ok, yes that was a bit confusing. Thanks for clarifying that.

    I’ve been looking at the different parts, springs, screws, and what not, and if I use imperial (inch) sizes for the parts, there’s not a whole lot that I would need to change. For the most part I can get screws that will fit just fine, except maybe the heads are a little bit bigger. But sanding the screw heads down, or making those holes just a little larger isn’t a big deal. I should still be able to get it done. The biggest “issue” right now is getting the thumb bearing. I can’t just purchase one, or 5 … I have to purchase upwards of 20 or so of them – there’s a minimum purchase cost. I’m only making ONE HACKberry … not 20! 🙂 (or maybe I should be making more, hah)

    Anyway, I’ll continue printing the parts while I keep sourcing the metal pieces that I need. I’ve also started working with the electronics board. I’m likely going to redo it completely and make it one integrated board, as opposed to having separate pieces come together. So instead of a separate Micro, separate DC-DC, and the protoboard, just create one custom board with everything on it. Should be cleaner that way.

    #206

    Oh, I forgot to ask: is there any reason why you choose to use a camera battery versus say using a couple of 16850 powercells? Those can just as easy get recharged like the camera battery, but they cost less than the camera battery and charger. I’m just curious.

    #207

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    just create one custom board with everything on it.

    If you can do so, that is fantastic! You know, DC-DC is now taking up so much space.
    It sounds very nice. I’m looking forward to your update.

    is there any reason why you choose to use a camera battery versus say using a couple of 16850 powercells?

    I think a camera battery is safer than 16850.
    16850’s electrode is exposed. There is some possibility of short circuit when users have to change the batteries.
    Moreover, I heard that 16850 has a safety circuit for discharge but does’t have it for charge.

    However, you can easily change the power source because the power is supplied from 2.1mm power plug.
    If you want to use 16850, all you have to do is to use 2.1mm power plug. It is no problem.

    #209

    Making a new, custom circuit board is easy enough. I have to either match your exact pin connections, or make changes in the code for whatever pins I end up using. That’s simple stuff.

    And you’re right on the batteries, using standard (exposed) 18650 batteries could potentially be problematic, though at the same time, they wouldn’t need to be replacing them. A recharging circuit can be build in on the same controller board where the user simply plugs it in over night to charge. I have other projects where I enclosed a battery and the user never has to do anything with it other than recharging it. The recharging circuit takes care of the safety for both charge and discharge, so that shouldn’t be an issue. It’s a matter of circuit design really.

    But, switching to 18650 batteries would mean making a small modification to the arm to accommodate the batteries as opposed to using a camera battery (and I have to figure out how to edit the solid blocks in Inventor first, or build on top of them.) Maybe I’ll do that in a later attempt. Right now I will probably stick with the current design and add enhancements later. 🙂

    #210

    By the way, for the DC-DC converter, am I correct that you’re using a 6V output for all the servos?

    #211

    Hrm, what about the Micro itself? From the schematic, it looks like you’re feeding raw power from the battery, all 7.2V, into both the Micro as well as the DC-DC converter. And you’re using 3.3V (out) to the sensor.

    #212

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    I have to figure out how to edit the solid blocks in Inventor first, or build on top of them.)

    If you kindly make such recharging circuit, I will make 3D data for 18650. I’m really looking forward to our collaboration.

    By the way, for the DC-DC converter, am I correct that you’re using a 6V output for all the servos?

    This DC-DC conveter can adjust the output voltage from 1.25[V] to 35[V]. I’m now using 5[V] because too much torque of large motor may break the index finger parts. This is lower limit of rated voltage for this motor.

    what about the Micro itself? From the schematic, it looks like you’re feeding raw power from the battery, all 7.2V, into both the Micro as well as the DC-DC converter. And you’re using 3.3V (out) to the sensor.

    You are right. I do so because the rated input voltage of Arduino Micro is from 7[V] to 12 [V] (are there any problem? I’m not so familiar with electronics). There is no specific reason for the sensor voltage. However, if this sensor can work at 3.3[V], it also can be used for other 3.3 V logic microcontroller.

    #213

    If you kindly make such recharging circuit, I will make 3D data for 18650.

    Yeah, I’ll be copying that from a previous project and modifying it for a multi-cell setup. The previous project is only a single cell, boosted to 5V. With the multi servos here, I’ll probably need the full power of two cells together, like the camera battery. We’ll see, I just started working on the schematic earlier today. I haven’t really spend a whole lot of time looking at each stage closely yet. Maybe over the weekend. But ultimately I want to have a single custom board as opposed to the different pieces put together. It’s cleaner and nicer that way.

    This DC-DC conveter can adjust the output voltage from 1.25[V] to 35[V]. I’m now using 5[V] because too much torque of large motor may break the index finger parts. This is lower limit of rated voltage for this motor.

    Oh right, I do remember you mentioning that. I’ll have to do some testing and see what happens. If it turns out that all I need is 5V, I may make the DC-DC fixed at 5V instead of variable. It’s easier that way and no risk of someone accidentally changing it and something going wrong or breaking.

    I do so because the rated input voltage of Arduino Micro is from 7[V] to 12 [V] (are there any problem? I’m not so familiar with electronics).

    No, it’s not bad. The regulator on the Micro will just get a bit warm, but it’ll be fine. Although, the bigger issue here is the signals. You’re reading 3.3V signals from the sensor into a 5V controller. Since you’re only reading from it, it should be fine, but a better solution is to put a level converter in between the signal lines. But that’s all small stuff that can be fixed over time.

    I’m also thinking I will use an EMG sensor instead of an IR. It’s not that much more complicated or expensive, it’s just a matter of programming the signals in. All code … heh.

    Anyway, I’ve been printing some of the pieces on my FDM printer, to put together and testing the fit. So far so good. A couple of pieces I had to redo because of how they failed, but nothing too major. The alternative is to use an SLS service but that’s a lot more expensive. If this works out, then I may consider re-making it on an SLS. We’ll see.

    #216

    Iago Cunha
    Participant

    Hi again Hiroshi! I would like to ask you about some parts that I had difficulty to find here at US (maybe someone else can help me too). They were:
    – Battery PCB
    – Conductor Miniature Jack
    – Arduino Micro Shield Board
    – Bearing (I didn’t find its specification in the BOM)
    – SS-12SDP

    Another thing is about the Arduino board. Do you thnik I can use Arduino UNO in this project? Since we are going to try to introduce EMG into this project. Or I still have to work with the Arduino Micro you listed in the BOM?

    Thank you very much for your support Hiroshi.

    #217

    Rodolfo Salido
    Participant

    – Arduino Micro Shield Board

    – Battery PCB

    This has been answered already, they are custom made shields. You would have to build it yourself. Hiroshi Yamaura elaborates on this in this reply. Unfortunately, you’ll have to build all of the custom PCB’s yourself. There’s schematics for them in the Hardware fork in github. If you don’t mind me asking, have you figured out where to get all of the specified fasteners (screws), bearings, and springs in the US?

    #219

    So you’re going to have a hard time finding everything to the exact specs in the US. However, you can get very close. Places like McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) sells almost all of the pieces. Most are within a 0.5mm tolerance of what the BOM says. Things like screw heads will need to be accounted for as they’ll be different (generally slightly larger), but again, it should be fine.

    The only part that’s difficult to get is the bearing. The bearing itself is only $2.25 (if you are in the US), however SPB USA, the company that sells them, requires a $50 minimum purchase. I can’t find it anywhere else, and even if I do, chances are the same thing will happen. It’s a small enough part that you are not likely to be able to just buy one. But everything else should be obtainable. From McMaster, it’s roughly a $100 order in parts. Adding the bearing, that’s another $50 only because of the minimum order bit.

    #220

    Iago Cunha
    Participant

    Thank you for all your information Ashley. The minimum or quantity has been a problem for me. Since I’m participating of an University program, and we have to accomplish the budget of $200. So it is a problem for us. Have you already constructed your hand?

    #221

    Iago Cunha
    Participant

    Hi Rodolfo, Thank you for your reply. I found the most parts at [MSCdirect.com] and at [GRAINGER.com]. But there are some that I couldn’t find.

    #222

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Rodolfo, Ashley and Iago
    Thank you for your discussion. These are very precious information for this forum.

    I think the bearing is not so important.
    If you have a difficulty of get it, maybe you can simply hold Hbthumb03 by HbPalmBase03.
    I didn’t test yet. However, you can remove the bearing and fill the space using plastic.
    This composition probably has no problem.

    #226

    Hey Iago,

    Have you already constructed your hand?

    I’m in the process of printing all the parts, fitting them, sanding where needed, etc., etc. I will be purchasing all the fasteners, likely later this month. At the moment I need to pause for a bit as I wait for another spool of filament to arrive anyway. Once I have it all, I’ll do a test fit of everything before I tackle the electronics.

    Hiroshi, rather than filling the space with plastic, it may be better to print a plastic ring to fit in the space, and have it act as sort of a washer sleeve. I have to check the measurements, but I’m pretty sure it’s possible. That way you decrease the friction between the two parts, by having a sleeve in place. Not as good as the bearing, but better than not having anything at all.

    #227

    Hey Hiroshi, do you know what these screw bosses/holes are for? There doesn’t seem to be anything that gets attached to them so I’m curious whether they are needed at all.
    Lower arm

    #228

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Hi Ashley,
    We are using a velcro band and a elbow supporter to fit the HACKberry to an user.
    These holes are used for fixing the velcro tape with screws.



    #232

    Aha! Ok, that makes sense. Ok, I’ll leave them in for now. I’ll see how my end-user is going to want to have it attached to his arm. He’s already has a sleeve that his current prosthetic goes on so I may just stick with that and let him decide whether he wants velcro to stick to that, or something else. We’ll see. Thanks!

    #256

    Hi.
    I would like to build one for my friend. Where can I download source files?

    Best regards,

    Frantisek Holiencik
    nezmar007za@azet.sk

    #258
    #261

    Hi Folks,

    I’ve been working on the mechanical part of this project for a month for fun and have been contacted by some amputees who want to give this technology a shot and want me to build them one! The main aim is to help them lead an active life and use them for recreational activities which normal prosthetics don’t allow.

    So as for the mechanical parts of things, does anyone have particular recommendations on how you want it to be stronger and lighter? Also, can’t we replace the servo motor with a smaller brushless dc to allow more fluid movements?
    http://www.nacrc.com/small-than-finger-micro-brushless-motor-only-84g-p-365.html

    also why not have a faster micro-controller?
    Arduino Tre, based on the Texas Instruments Sitara AM335x ARM Cortex-A8 processor.
    or
    https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardLilyPadUSB

    On the mechanical part of things, i’ve been working on
    – making thumb divisions, to allow greater flexibility and hold
    – adding fingertips pads to simulate the touch of a human finger tip so that users can still use their touch screen phone or use it to do delicate or precise things such as turn a page in a book
    -an alternate to the current linking system which can handle even more stresses and forces. The current mechanical design of the fingers could also use improvement as they aren’t strong enough at joints connecting fingers to the palms.

    Another question, how long does the current battery last? my estimate would be about a day, but given there are iphones can last for 2 to 2. and half days
    I’m also looking into better batteries 🙂

    I welcome all feedback and i will be uploading my CAD files soon 🙂

    Cheers!
    Himanshu

    #264

    Cameron Norris
    Participant

    I think before suggesting hundreds of changes to exiii… everyone should try making the original first!
    It’s the best way to learn why designs have been created in a particular way — it becomes clear when you follow and build them — actually building the original is also necessary to provide the most useful practical suggestions.

    For example, being able to easily source components is far more important than having a battery that lasts two days but is very hard to source.

    exiii have put careful consideration into each and every single part of this project, which you will see when you start building it!

    Thanks!

    #268

    Just a heads up folks, on the micro servos listed in the BOM. The link to the US Amazon product page is for an MG90, which is too tall to fit the design (33mm x 32mm x 12mm). The Japanese link takes you to the one that’s an MG15 (or 15MG as listed) and that one is a shorter one at (23.8 × 20.9 x 11.8mm).

    Servos 1, me 0 — time to start searching for the correct sized one.

    #269

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    I am so sorry about it. It was my mistake.
    I just deleted the link to MG90 and will search another substitution.

    #270

    Oh don’t be sorry Hiroshi. Some times it’s not easy to tell what will fit and what won’t. I did find another that would work, however it’s way, WAY more expensive, and it’s also all plastic. I’m still looking for a suitable replacement that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg.

    #271
    #272

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    >Himanshu
    Sorry for very late reply…

    does anyone have particular recommendations on how you want it to be stronger and lighter?
    Also, can’t we replace the servo motor with a smaller brushless dc to allow more fluid movements?

    Strength:If you use SLS printer(nylon) instead of FDM printer(abs), the hand will be stronger.
    Weight:Simply remove the battery. Since DC plug is exposed from palm, you can easily supply power from outside. Then, the weight user has to lift will be lighter.
    These are just examples.

    can’t we replace the servo motor with a smaller brushless dc to allow more fluid movements?

    Sorry, I’m not familiar with brushless dc. Is it have enough torque? If we need additional gear unit, I think the cost and volume will be impractical.

    also why not have a faster micro-controller?

    If we need a faster one, I will think about using them.
    However, Arduino micro is enough for the requirement for now.

    how long does the current battery last?

    You are right. Although we’ve not accurately tested yet, it can last about 12 hours.

    Your plan is interesting! I’m looking forward to see your designs.

    >Cameron
    Yes, if people will build original one, they will find many things such as our ideas, efforts, and faults.
    These are very important for improving HACKberry.
    On the other hand, I also welcome unbiased comment sometimes.
    I am glad that you got apprehensive about us and our community.
    Thank you so much!

    #273

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    >Tima

    Thanks! I compared its data with actual dimensions of ASV-15MG.
    I think 9306MG is much better than MG90.
    One thing I am a little worried about is the dimension A.
    9306MG is 1.35[mm] taller than ASV-15MG.
    However, this dimension is easily adjustable using washer or something.

    #275

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    I just found ES08-MD.
    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDGMRDU
    I think it probably has the same dimensions with ASV-15MG’s.
    I ordered this servo. I will confirm it and update the information soon.

    #276

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    ES08-MD was just arrived.
    This is compatible with ASV-15MG.
    Not only dimensions, but servo horns’s shape and operating range are also same.
    Please use it as the substitution of ASV-15MG.

    By the way,ES08-MD’s torque is 2.4 kg・cm@6V. This is stronger than ASV-15MG’s(1.6 kg・cm@6V).
    I may replace ASV-15MG with ES08-MD sometime soon.

    #290

    Scott Gilsdorf
    Participant

    Hiroshi, Ashley, Satima, Cameron,
    I really enjoyed reading this blog and all of your thoughts and comments! I’m a technical person first but thought it would be nice to have blog section on the issues surrounding people that need these devices. Meaning how best to serve them? Concerns that they may have so that we can have those ideas in our heads while designing something. Looking forward to putting my first hand together. I’m starting completely from scratch! I have some experience with electronics, schematics, breadboarding, Arduino, CAD but it’s been a while. I hope I can provide valuable input here!
    Good Health!
    Scott

    #294

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Hi Scott,
    I’m glad that you joined our community.
    As you already mentioned, please use this forum as blog or other purposes for now.
    If this forum overflows, I will organize the information and make other sections.

    Moreover, thank you for your several questions.
    I will answer them in each topic.
    Hiroshi

    #309

    Scott Gilsdorf
    Participant

    Are there any video/instructions on how to remove the excess printed material. I just finished the major portion of the hand and it appears to me that it’s constructed with supports that I’m assuming have to be trimmed off. Thanks!

    #310

    Scott Gilsdorf
    Participant

    What is everyone using to finish the hand exterior after pulling all of the support structure off? I used a dremel initially using the grinder, then sanding down the the finest grit, the used a buffer but he finished product is not as smooth as I’d like.

    #313

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    I just shoot the video of removing support material but I feel it is maybe not the one you need..

    BTW, if you need smooth surface, please try
    -filling the interlaminar steps with a putty before polishing.
    -using SLS print service(such as Shapeways).
    -using car wrapping film(such as this[http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0059XCVVO/] ).

    This is simply printed hand using FDM.

    This is the combination of SLS printing and car wrapping film.

    #314

    Hi Scott, Welcome to the community. I have been using whatever it takes to remove the supports (pliers, flat screw driver, knifes). All the parts with curved surfaces, I stand them up to print. Try not to have curved surfaces touched the bed or supports and they came out really good. Another thing I found is the natural white ABS filament seems to hide imperfection really well. With these tricks, I haven’t had to do any sanding.

    #315

    Hiroshi, The large servo (analog HD-3001HB) has plastic gear train. You mentioned that it’s a must to use servos with metal gear (post-184). Have you or anyone found a substitution for the discontinued servo GWS S03N 2BB Standard Servo that meet the requirements?

    #327

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Satima, thank you for the information. I didn’t notice that.
    Unfortunately, I haven’t found any substitutions. I will search them.

    #338

    Pined Laohapiengsak
    Participant

    Hi All,
    I’m a maker from Thailand 🙂

    Firstly, I would like to thank you to Hiroshi for his brilliant product [and also make it an open-source]
    This will help a lot of people who need artificial arm

    Currently, I’m on printing process.
    But I found that, FDM printing part is not smooth [especially, side that contacted support]

    Are there any way to make it better??

    Ps. I use PLA as mat

    Thank you in advance

    #339

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Hi Pined,
    Sorry for late reply.
    As for improving the print quality,
    Please check this post. http://exiii-hackberry.com/forums/topic/assembling/#post-313

    I think that the direction of the part is also important.
    For example, direction A will get better quality than diretion B because it is not affected by the layer pitch.

    #346

    Pined Laohapiengsak
    Participant

    Thank you Hiroshi 🙂

    I’ll try it 🙂

    #417

    Hello Khun Pined, I’m glad to hear someone in Thailand is working on a HACKberry. I hope it will reach people who are in need of bionic hands like HACKberry. I wonder if you have been able to source all the components there. Good luck and have fun!

    #486

    I don’t know if someone can help me but I downloaded the 3D parts and opened them on inventor, my question is .. has someone tried to make a new assembly and tried the movement inside inventor? without using servo motors and all the other stuff just giving them constraints… I want to make a new assembly and run it along with matlab (simulink) to make some tests inside Inventor, also anyone have a diagram or video on how the mechanism to move the fingers work?
    thanks for your time

    #527

    Hiroshi, according to http://exiii-hackberry.com/forums/topic/assembling/#post-228, you have the sensor strapped on the lower part of the arm. I wonder if the users there can actually use that part of the arm to control the hand. I also wonder how long they can wear the hand with the pressure from the 2 straps (the arm and sensor). Have you heard any feedback on this matter from the users there? Can you share the link to where to get the same elbow support? I have seen the videos of the HACkbery users moving the hand around comfortably and I’m still trying to produce the same result. Can you also explain how you use the HbUpperArmCover01.stl? Thank you.

    #528

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    I wonder if the users there can actually use that part of the arm to control the hand.

    Our test user Akira can control the hand using that part of the arm.
    However, it depend on the condition of remained muscle. You don’t have to put the sensor on that part. You can put the sensor under the elbow support.

    Have you heard any feedback on this matter from the users there?

    There was no problem after wearing the hand for 2-3 hours but we’ve not tested specifically.
    We also know this method is not perfect. We’re now trying other methods such as 3D scan, combining traditional socket, and so on.

    Can you share the link to where to get the same elbow support?

    We use these supporters. They’re covered with velcro tape.
    http://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B000AS4J72/
    http://www.amazon.co.jp/dp/B007XA7ITG/
    (Sorry, these’re Japanese link. Maybe followings can work as substitutions).
    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WJAGLMU
    http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L99G9PQ/

    Can you also explain how you use the HbUpperArmCover01.stl?

    It is just a cosmetic cover. This is attached to elbow supporter using velcro tape. We made this cover because an user said that he feel anxiety when his stump is exposed. However, we don’t use this cover.

    #594

    sorry for the inconvenience I was checking the BOM and have some questions regarding the assembly or the usage of some parts…
    for example.. the spring probe where is located? saw some videos about the assembly of the hand and fingers but can’t find where is located.
    The same for the coil spring, tension spring and steel ball.
    thanks for your time

    #595

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Sorry, the BOM has not been updated yet.

    We just added “WIKI”. It is focusing on assembling for now.
    Please check there from the “WIKI” button in the top right of this page.
    (Everybody can edit this wiki without registration.)

    Spring probe is mounted to Battery PCB. it is used as battery contact.
    Coil Spring and steel ball is mainly used for the wrist unit.

    #598

    Thanks for the information Hiroshi, I will get back to work.. this next months will post my report 🙂

    #635

    one question, for the screws the holes have to be printed a different way or how do you insert them to the assembly without them falling and sticking without a problem?

    #636

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Sorry, I couldn’t understand what you mean..

    for the screws the holes have to be printed a different way

    We print the holes as their 3D data. We don’t use a different way.
    If you’re worried about tapping, we’re using self-tapping screw. Tapping is unnecessary.

    how do you insert them to the assembly without them falling and sticking without a problem

    Do you mean “why does the screws stick to a screwdriver?” ?
    I use magnetic screwdriver.

    #638

    sorry if my questions wasn’t clear , what I meant was…

    if the holes for the assembly need any kind of screw thread or they are just plain circles and you apply the screws by pressure?

    thanks hiroshi

    #639

    Hi Victorino,

    To answer your question, yes the self-tapping screws will cut their own threads when they are screwed in with pressure the same as you would use wood or metal screws. It might help to re-drill the holes to 1.6 mm for M2 and 2.5 mm for M3 to prevent cracking or splitting the plastic layers. You can try to make some bosses for the screw holes a little bigger but some of them don’t have room for that and I’m not sure if it would help much.

    I paint some acetone lightly on some small bosses and skinny parts to strengthen them although Kyle doesn’t it’s a good idea, see his post here http://exiii-hackberry.com/forums/topic/reports-from-pikes-peak-makerspace/#post-606. He suggested epoxy resin.

    He might be right but that works for me so far. It’s a lazy way. It’s doesn’t need any post-processing and it looks good. No problem so far. Just don’t over do it.

    For M3 holes that are impossible to be re-drilled. I just apply acetone on them and let them cure over night. Acetone only works with ABS though.

    Kentaro used some kind of epoxy glue. (http://exiii-hackberry.com/forums/topic/hackberry-creation-result/#post-316)

    Hope this helps.

    #679

    EW CHEE GUAN
    Participant

    Hi Hiroshi,

    I’m using small metal geared motor for my R&D of E-Nable hand because I broke a lot of RC servo motor in my previous experiment. ( here’s the link : http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-6V-30RPM-Micro-Speed-Reduction-Gear-Motor-with-Metal-Gearbox-Wheel-Shaft-/111742307756?hash=item1a045c4dac:g:840AAOSwI-BWOXz2 )
    they are more quiet, more smooth, and also all metal geared, good torque too. They have several type of RPM range and also voltage range, and size is slightly smaller than servo. I use a small resistor to series with the motor, and sense the current and feed into arduino’s Analog input , so when the motor grip something, the motor near stall, current goes higher and arduino will cut the power or feed a small PWM at lower rate into the motor to let the hand keep gripping the object.

    #680

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Hi Guan, thank you for your information.
    I thought that I must use limit switch or position meter to use DC motor.
    However, your idea realized me that I can substitute them by sensing the current of the motor.
    It’s interesting. I’ll try it near future. Thanks!

    #684

    EW CHEE GUAN
    Participant

    Hi Hiroshi,
    While I’m building Hackberry for my recipient, I also thinking of using above mentioned small geared motor (GA12-N20) in a smaller size of Hackberry because I have one young recipient who need a smaller hand. I”m good in electronics ( been in industrial electronics job for the past 22 years ) The current sensing idea actually came from industrial machine, and I have the whole idea of current sensing Hackberry but I haven’t finished the Arduino program yet, still learning how to write Arduino code ….

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