Hackberry portal Forum HACKberry Q&A Development of HandBoard_v2

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This topic contains 40 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by  Leticia Luiza 9 months, 4 weeks ago.

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  • #439

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    This topic is continuation of following topic.
    http://exiii-hackberry.com/forums/topic/reports-from-pikes-peak-makerspace/

    exiii and Pikes Peak Makerspace will collaborate to make the next version of the pcb for HACKberry.
    I named this pcb as HandBoard_v2.
    The exterior parts will also be modified since the positions of the buttons will be changed.
    Therefore, I will also change 3D data for this pcb.
    These new assembly data’s name is HACKberry_v2.

    HandBoard_v2’s specifications are as follews.
    -The positions of the buttons will be changed.
    -Some LEDS will be added.
    -A microcontroller will be directly embedded instead of Arduino Micro.

    Installing DC-DC converter is now under investigation.

    #440

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Our team started to discuss the layout of the buttons.
    We can use the space enclosed in red rectangles.

    If we can move the pcb to back side, we can use the space above the small motor.
    However, we have to move the pcb more than 4 mm(section B-B) for that purpose. It’ll be a little difficult for DC Jack(section C-C).

    If DC-DC converter will be integrated to HandBoard_v2, we can lay down the small motor and fill in the rectangular hole in the pcb.

    Anyway, we will investigate more about the layout.
    In our experience, too many buttons will confuse users.
    We want to reduce the number of buttons as much as possible.
    For example, we don’t want to add RESET button because power lever can serve that function.

    I’ll post the follow-up.

    #446

    Hiroshi, you’re right, we don’t need the RESET button. The simpler, the better.

    #447

    add the double function of muscle contraction (2 times a muscle clenched hand closed), 2 times a muscle clenched hand opened

    #455

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    This is current button layout of the HACKberry.

    MAX:memorize the sensor value as maximum value
    MIN:memorize the sensor value as minimum value
    THUMB:change the position of thumb
    POWER:turn on/off the power supply
    LITTLE:hold the position of little (,ring and middle) finger

    User calibrates HACKberry’s finger movement using MAX/MIN button.
    The sensor value is standardized using maximum/minimum value.
    The HACKberry translates this standardized value into motor speed.
    ——-
    However, this method is a bit confusing for actual user.

    Our intern Yuta has came up with new calibration method.

    Once user pushes “calibration” button, HACKberry starts to measure the sensor value for 5 seconds.
    User contracts/relaxes muscles and maximum/minimum values are updated continually during the period.
    Then, HACKberry moves as usual.
    By using this method, we can reduce the number of buttons and user can use the HACKberry more easily.

    If you want to try, please download the sketch from the following link.
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_O4N8Ng5KyZNGtWRU9DWVNzWlk/view?usp=sharing

    #460

    Hiroshi, that’s a good idea. It helps calibration much easier.
    By the way, we can integrate the dc-dc converter into the new handboard with some protection. However it’ll probably be more expensive than using the converter module like the one you suggested if one wants to make just a few. It gets cheaper if produced in a big quantity. It will definitely make HACKberry easier to build and free up some space. It comes down to what the community wants.
    We’re also investigating this smaller converter, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-3A-Converter-Adjustable-Step-down-Power-Supply-Module-replace-LM2596s-/281813856838?hash=item419d6a3246
    This is not to suggest that we should use it but to keep all options open for now.

    #477

    While waiting for more information, Don Vukovic made the first working prototype handboard. This is not final. We’re working on integrating the dc-dc converter. However, we’re using the new smaller converter for now because we have not been able to locate all required components. We’ll be changing switch locations that will be provided by Hiroshi. It seems like the usb port might be moved so that it can be accessed from the wrist end unless anyone has a better location for it.
    Hiroshi, we’ll be sending you one to help with the communication.
    The First Working Prototype Handboard V2
    DC-DC converter comparison

    #478

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    >Tima
    Wow! Congratulations! It’s really amazing.
    Thank you for you and Don Vukovic’s great work!

    I’m sorry for long silence. I’ve been tied up.
    I will certainly add more information such as switch locations soon.
    This is just a quick note to thank you.

    #485

    Thank you Hiroshi. We’ve also been discussing about the placement of the sensor jack and the usb port. The following figures show the general locations where we think the sensor jack and the usb port could be. Let us know your thought.

    Will your intern Yuta be the one who involves with the new pcb work? Have you or Yuta tried Altium to see if you can use it?


    #487

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Thank you for your great proposal. Moving USB port to wrist side is good idea. We don’t use that port during actual use. We use this port only for debugging. Detaching is not a problem. Let’s continue along Option 2.
    (Option 1 is not bad but if we wire sensor jack and pcb, disassembling BackCover will be a little troublesome).

    #488

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    By the way, I’m thinking of using this kind of DC Jack.
    https://www.sengoku.co.jp/mod/sgk_cart/detail.php?code=EEHD-0SMG
    It contains Power Lever. We can reduce number of switch on BackCover and it will be more easy to understand for user.

    There are 2 problems:
    -Delivery
    I couldn’t find this part at Mouser and Digi-Key. Can you get this kind of DC Jack in US?

    -Size
    DC Jack with switch will be bigger than current one(MJ179PH).
    We may have to change the position of Sensor jack and DC jack like this.
    null

    #489

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Will your intern Yuta be the one who involves with the new pcb work? Have you or Yuta tried Altium to see if you can use it?

    We are focusing on making PCB kits of previous version(HandBoard_v1).
    This picture is prototype.

    Therefore, it’s still not clear how much we can contribute to develop HandBoard_v2 for now.
    When do you want to finish designing HandBoard_v2 and put it on the market?

    On the other hand, I want to understand your design.
    Do you mind if I ask you to share the PDF of schematic diagram and design data of Altium?

    #493

    Hiroshi, I’m not sure if we can find the power jack with a power lever here. It seems to me that we have to get it from China. Do you think a panel mount power switch can be placed somewhere on the arm unit instead?
    It’ll probably take a while to get the handboard v2 finalized and produced so having the current pcb kits available right away will encourage people to continue building HACKberry instead of having to wait for version 2. Are you going to include the sensor jack with the kit? I haven’t been able to find the sensor jack you specify in BOM. The best I can find is the following surface-mount jack.
    http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CUI-Inc/SJ-3524-SMT-TR-GR/?qs=%2fha2pyFadug8PVwHwEqTx4uiIQoKMNueOxAVXqx1qAnl%252bHLeFPoLlRv1fCKDdv7I
    The through-hole jack below is easier to get here.
    http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Switchcraft/35RAPC2BHN2/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugK0GAXBEyY%2fC9EX4eT58ZjY%2fZ7vWBwRXo%3d
    Don can send you the schematics soon.

    #502

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    having the current pcb kits available right away will encourage people to continue building HACKberry instead of having to wait for version 2.

    Yeah, I think so too. Thank you for understanding.

    I’m not sure if we can find the power jack with a power lever here. It seems to me that we have to get it from China.

    OK, I won’t use the power jack with a power lever.

    Do you think a panel mount power switch can be placed somewhere on the arm unit instead?

    It’ll be easy to use. I’ll think it over.

    I haven’t been able to find the sensor jack you specify in BOM.

    Oh, sorry. I will include an audio jack to the kit but there is no need to use current jack.
    I’ll order and test these 2 jacks you recommended.

    Don can send you the schematics soon.

    Thanks! We’ll be waiting for the data.

    #558

    Hiroshi, I wonder if you used the files produced by ki-cad to make the pcb you posted at http://exiii-hackberry.com/forums/topic/development-of-handboard_v2/#post-489. If so, did you have to make any change to have the slots cut for the power jack and through holes for sensor jacks? The purple pcbs shown in (http://exiii-hackberry.com/forums/topic/reports-from-pikes-peak-makerspace/#post-364) were from your ki-cad files back in (around) August. The ki-cad file seems to show the slots but no slot on the pcb.

    #559

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Tima,

    I wonder if you used the files produced by ki-cad to make the pcb you posted at http://exiii-hackberry.com/forums/topic/development-of-handboard_v2/#post-489.

    Yes, I used KiCAD to make this green PCB.
    The file is here.

    If so, did you have to make any change to have the slots cut for the power jack and through holes for sensor jacks?

    Yes, I altered output setting of KiCAD.
    Before using PCB Manufacturing servie, I tried LPKF’s Circuit Board Plotter.
    Their software(LPKF Circuit Pro 2.2) didn’t recognize the slots designed by KiCAD.
    Therefore, I modified the setting of KiCAD.
    Maybe that’s why our green PCB’ slots are successfully drilled.

    #566

    Chengji Xu
    Participant

    hello guys,
    It seems you have problems in buying things. I’m from china, and you know that you can find anything to be sold here. hope i can help.
    However, I dont know much about electronics ^o^. I’m just an ordinary fan of hackberry and want to build one. I bought a 3D printer two weeks ago and now I’m getting on studying how to make the hackberry v1 or v2.

    #673

    Hi Chengji,

    Thanks for offering to help. I’ll let you know if I have trouble getting something.

    #674

    Hi Hiroshi,

    We’re not using this power jack to avoid having to cut the slots. The pcb serviced here in the US don’t like slots.
    http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/PJ-102A/CP-102A-ND/275425

    #677

    EW CHEE GUAN
    Participant

    Hi Mr. Hiroshi,

    May I know if the V2 board using Atmega328 please? its more easy to solder and cheaper than a 32u4.
    Maybe you can take out the USB FTDI circuit from the V2 board because the hand user will not using it at all, this can save PCB space and when we need to use USB port, just insert one of this :
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-FTDI-Basic-Breakout-USB-TTL-6-PIN-5V-Module-For-Arduino-MWC-MultiWii-SU-/221993594847?hash=item33afd96fdf:g:fB8AAOSwYIhWlcAS

    I’m actually planning to re-design the board until I saw this post.

    Regards,
    Ew

    #682

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Tima,
    Thank you for good feedback!
    I’ll refrain from using slots for pcb design.

    Since I already ordered the PCB with current design,
    I have to continue to use slot type jack(MJ179PH) for now.
    However, I will buy PJ-102A and check whether I can introduce it to v1 board.

    #683

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Hi Ew,
    Sorry, the specification of V2 board is not fixed yet.
    Maybe I have to design v2’s mechanical part first.

    If you have an idea for improvement,
    could you wait for a while or could you design and make it for HACKberry v1?
    We can test it and can decide which feature should be introduced to next model.

    #734

    EW CHEE GUAN
    Participant

    Hi Tima and Hiroshi,

    I’m also excited with the V2 board. In my opinion, the LED is not really necessary but small LED blinking between the 3 rolls of switch can be very helpful , make it dim is ok, and user can see the buttons in total darkness via the button’s gap.
    I printed all button in glow-in -the-dark PLA for my recipient so that they can see the button in the dark .

    I’m also thinking of re-design complete board with Atmega 328 build-in, and I will build both left and right board. Since Tima already doing it, I’m worry that my own design board will not fit your new design anymore, so I just wait for Tima to finished the board design.

    I can’t find springs locally, and I order made them 100pcs minimum , and I buy screws in 500pcs per pack , etc.
    so I think I will supply to E-Nable volunteers with hardware kits , and also boards, in near future. I will talk to our local courier service and hopefully they can help me to ship worldwide with special price so that we can help more people at lowest cost.

    #737

    Hi Ew,

    My friend Don couldn’t wait to have fun so he went ahead to have the prototype handboard V2 with the LED just to show that it can be done. It did not suggest the final version of V2.

    I was thinking of printing glow in the dark buttons too. In fact our first prototype black-white hand, the battery door is glow in the dark. When the light is off at night, it really glows. From our experience with Delaney, our HACKberry user, she learns to press the buttons without looking at them very quickly so I skipped it for now. Although, it might be fun to make a glow in the dark hand.

    #1231

    Elvio Lievert
    Participant

    good

    #1232

    Elvio Lievert
    Participant

    Good evening, first of all, congratulations for this beautiful project. I live in Brazil and I’ve printed all the mechanical parts, but the electronic part I’m not able to finish. Does anyone have a well designed circuit? I did not enter that other board that takes the arduino and also wanted to know if the potentiometer enters the circuit, I already looked at almost all the related paguinas, but I could not

    #1233

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Have you already checked the page?
    http://exiii-hackberry.com/dw/doku.php?id=how_to_order

    #1234

    Elvio Lievert
    Participant

    Development of HandBoard_v2

    #1235

    Elvio Lievert
    Participant

    Hiroshi good night the voltage regulator is a step down or a lifter

    #1237

    Elvio Lievert
    Participant

    Hiroshi what is the function of Batt Contact probe? I did not understand

    #1238

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    That is step down voltage regulator.
    The battery’s voltage is 7.2[V]. Input for servo motors is 5.0 [V].

    what is the function of Batt Contact probe?

    The battery(DMW-BLF19) has flat terminals.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IMRAKRK/

    The battery contact probe enables us to get stable conduction from the terminals.
    If you use other type battery, you don’t need to get the probe.

    #1239

    Elvio Lievert
    Participant

    thanks for listening. Hiroshi do you have these complete circuits in photos?

    #1240

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    Of course, I do. What do you mean?

    #1241

    Elvio Lievert
    Participant

    If you had a complete electronic diagram I would be very grateful, I am finishing the electronic part, but I still have some doubts

    #1242

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster
    #1243

    Elvio Lievert
    Participant

    That’s what I was missing, Hiroshi thank you very much for your attention, really.

    #1244

    Hiroshi Yamaura
    Keymaster

    You are welcome. I hope your project goes well!

    #1248

    Elvio Lievert
    Participant

    tank you

    #1309

    Nguyễn Hoài Nam
    Participant

    Dear all,
    Where do I get the schematic HandBoard_v2
    I would like to make PCB for this board with USB to serial by PL2303SA (SOP8).
    Thank all,
    Nguyen Hoai Nam

    #1377

    Leticia Luiza
    Participant

    Good night Iroshi , wanted to buy direct from you the electronic part such as the PCP servo motors board sensors. In fact the whole electronic part. Is there such a possibility?

    #1378

    Leticia Luiza
    Participant

    I already contacted you on my account that I had access to facebook, I do not know why but I can not log in to the forum and for that reason I logged into my wife’s gmail.

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