Hackberry portal Forum HACKberry Report Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace

This topic contains 67 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by  Satima Anankitpaiboon 4 years, 6 months ago.

Viewing 68 posts - 1 through 68 (of 68 total)
  • Author
  • #361

    We have the first prototype working, still have to work on fitting to the recipient. We currently use IR sensor QRD1114. We are in a process of trying RPR-220 and QRE1113 and still waiting for TPR-105 and SG-105. One of the pictures is the pcb boards we had them made. The first version pcb boards are from the gerber data provided by Hiroshi. We’ll be working on them next.


    First PPM HACKberry



    First pcbs


    Here’s the video of Delaney showing off her HACKbery at What If Festival in Colorado Spring, Colorado, USA last Saturday.


    Hiroshi Yamaura


    Thank you very much for sharing the video.
    We are so excited since this is the first time that the HACKberry created from our community reached an actual user.
    I feel our approaches are spreading the world.


    Hiroshi, I wish you could see all the smiling faces there. Thanks to you and your team again for making this hand available to the world!


    Diana Svea

    Hi Tima,
    I work for a non-profit organization called the Range of Motion Project (ROMP) and we are interested in building a Hackberry to test with our patients. I’ve been compiling a list of all the materials I need to order separately to build the hand, but got stuck when we came to the PCB boards. Exiii on facebook told me that you have already made PCB boards and that you’re located in Colorado. Is it possible to order the boards from you? Or get a schematic and instructions on how to build them? Any insight you have would be greatly appreciated!


    Hi Diana, we have 3 copies of the pcb boards, have them made at OSH Park with the gerber files created from the kicad files but haven’t had a chance to try them yet. You can get them from us or we can send the files to you so you can have the boards made yourself. If you want to try to build them from a perfboard, Hiroshi posted the schematics in pdf format here (https://github.com/exiii/HACKberry/tree/master/HACKberry-hardware/electronics). I used these schematics and the pictures on post#184 (http://exiii-hackberry.com/forums/topic/assembling/) We’ll be at the Ted Talk in Loveland, CO, this Sat. If you plan to be there or visit us down here sometime, we can talk more.


    Diana, if you send an email to pikespeakmakerspace@gmail.com and ask for me. We can arrange to send what we have to help you move forward.


    HACKberry at TEDxArenaCircle in Loveland Colorado, 9-26-15.
    HACKberry with Titan Robotics at TEDx


    Hiroshi Yamaura

    These pictures are really wonderful! Thank you for posting.
    I want to hear his story. I hope this talk will be uploaded to Youtube.

    Speaking of TEDx,Bram from Wevolver also made a talk at TEDxMadrid with HACKberry.
    I also looking forward to see the video.


    Cameron Norris

    Amazing job with the HACKberry, Satima! I just emailed you about the sensors and swapping the Arduino Micro out for an Atmega328. I used a perf board so I’d love to try out your PCB! I’ve been working on an alternative silicone fitting for the HACKberry, so if you have a 3D scan of Delaney’s arm, perhaps I can create a simple socket for her? Let me know!


    Hiroshi, I’m glad to hear there was another Ted talk about the HACKberry. More people need to know about your bionic hand. I would love to see the video of Bram’s Ted talk in Madrid. I’ll let you know when they have the video of Clay Guillory (Titan Robotics).
    Cameron, thank you but it’s actually Hiroshi and his team who invented and share their amazing work with us. I just copied their work. I’ll let you know when we have the new version of pcbs made. We would love to work with you to create a socket for Delaney. She likes the velcro attachment in the summer but the socket would be good for the winter. I’ll send you the 3D scan. Thanks Cameron!


    I’m working with Don on the next version of the pcb for HACKberry that will have a microcontroller directly embedded on the pcb hand board. To free up more space inside the hand and to reduce the cost, we plan to use the ATmega328-p (TQFP-32) and a CH340G (SOIC-16; USB to Serial). We think that not having few things from the Arduino Micro that we don’t need for HACKberry, the hand will operate longer on a single battery.

    We also want to mount the pcb on the back cover instead to make sure that all switches work properly before wrapping it up. With this setup and some modification, we hope the pcb will be high enough so that we don’t need to cut the rectangular hole in the middle for the servo fixture and so we have more room on the pcb to add more stuff. We’d also want to add some LEDs, ex. power light/life meter, error light and a reset button that can be accessed from the outside. If anyone would like to provide an input, we’d like to hear from you.


    Hiroshi Yamaura

    That sounds great!
    Mounting pcb on back cover is a really good idea.

    I want to ask you some questions.
    -Is it possible for you to combine that new pcb board and DC-DC converter?
    -Can I change the positions of buttons because current positions are confusing to use.
    -Do you want to decide LEDs and RESET button positions by yourself?
    Is it better for you if we provide new 3D data that contains LEDs and RESET button?


    Hiroshi, I’m glad you think it’s a good idea. We thought about combining the converter to the pcb but now we have a second thought. In case the converter blows up, it’s cheaper to fix if the converter is separate from the pcb. We would like to work with you for the new positions of the buttons, LEDS and RESET. and yes, it is better if you provide the new 3D data. It will be a big help because you know this hand better than anyone else 🙂 Will it saves you some time if we go over some sketches back and forth few times and we produce a set of the pcb to send you to finalize the 3D data?

    We have been looking into the requirements for the servos to battery capacity but can’t find any specs for the current these servos require. We have seen the spec of 4.8-6.0 VDC for these servos. We’re also looking for real life accounts of the battery life. If you have any more info about DMW-BLF19 to send us, that’s be great!


    Hiroshi, Can you send me a sketch that shows the positions of the buttons, LEDs and RESET that you have in mind?


    OK Hiroshi, we have another thought (the third one). We’re looking into combining the converter to the new pcb board.


    Hiroshi Yamaura

    Sorry for late reply.

    Will it saves you some time if we go over some sketches back and forth few times and we produce a set of the pcb to send you to finalize the 3D data?

    Yes, it will be really helpful.
    I’m now wondering how to proceed making new pcb.
    An intern has just joined our team. He is better than me on electorical engineering.
    I want him to collaborate with you and Don Vukovic.
    What kind of electorical CAD do you use? EAGLE?

    As for the servo current,
    ASV-15’s stall current is 600mA [ http://www.robotsfx.com/robot/ASV-15.html ].
    *this is Japanese page.

    I also couldn’t find S03N’s stall current.
    I referred this page [ http://homepages.paradise.net.nz/bhabbott/Servo.html ].
    Hitec HS-925MG’s stall current is 1700mA and its specs are generally resembles S03N.

    If you have any more info about DMW-BLF19 to send us, that’s be great!

    I don’t have specific value, but it last total 12 hours demonstration use.


    Hiroshi Yamaura

    Can you send me a sketch that shows the positions of the buttons, LEDs and RESET that you have in mind?

    Sorry, we need more couple of days to think over it.
    Please wait for a while.

    We’re looking into combining the converter to the new pcb board.

    Thank you. Give your opinion when you finished your investigation.


    Hiroshi, thanks for the servo current and battery info. Don uses Altium. If your intern wants to use other software, we can send you what you need so you can do it with the software you want to use.


    Hiroshi Yamaura

    OK. I will let you know the filetype what we need.
    I use KiCAD and our intern uses EAGLE.
    I don’t know how to deal with the data between Altium and KiCAD and EAGLE but will find.
    (We also have access to Altium but haven’t used yet).

    By the way, I want to change the place of discussion.
    Can we continue to talk this topic here?


    Certainly, I thought of that too.


    Just finished the second HACKberry. The exact locations of the switches on the pcb make it easy to assemble the buttons and back cover. This version seems much stronger compared to the one released around July. The new thumb (with some silicone rubber pads) can really grasp bigger objects like water bottles or soda cans firmly. I modified and separated the new thumb into 2 parts to have a strong fitting and aesthetic ​appeal with the 3D printing, planned to glue them with acetone (for ABS) but they have a very good friction fit so I left them alone. We use 100% infill for most parts and paint some acetone on some small bosses and skinny parts to strengthen them. The purple-grey HACKberry will be given to our 13 year-old user, Delaney. We’re working with Delaney’s Prosthetist and hope to be able to deliver the hand to Delaney soon.



    To clarify about the thumb, I didn’t not change the design. I just separated the thumb into 2 parts for printing purposes.


    Hiroshi Yamaura

    Hi Tima, I didn’t know we can get such a well-finished surface by painting acetone. It looks very nice! I think Delaney will surely love it.

    Acetone’s reinforcement is interesting. We’re lending a HACKberry to an user in Japan. The weakest point is index finger. The finger breaks in his daily life. We’ll try acetone.

    BTW, we’re using Shapeways’s steel print for gears. https://www.shapeways.com/materials/steel If you have a problem with gears, please try it. it is not so expensive. I recommend you to enlarge their gear’s hole from 2.2mm to 2.4mm. Actual holes are often smaller than 3D data and it is very hard to drill.

    Separating a thumb into 2 parts is also good idea. Thank you for sharing update!


    Hi Hiroshi, Thank you! I prefer the raw look from the 3D printing so I didn’t do the acetone vapor bath on whole hand, just painted acetone on the parts that are prone to failure. The black arm unit looks shiny in the picture but it just the way it came out (no acetone treatment there).

    Thank you for the tip on the steel printing. We’ve been thinking about the metal printing too. I haven’t had any problem with the gears but if anything breaks, I will try that.


    Kyle Seleski

    Hi new user here just browsing. I may have something of interest to add regarding material science of plastics. We actually use caution notes for using acetone as a cleaning agent for some thermoplastic parts (ABS is a thermoplastic) as it can create cracks on parts that are both wet with acetone and also experiencing mechanical stress at the same time. I wanted to add something else to consider as a post treatment for the plastics. A two part polyester or epoxy resin is used in composite manufacturing and can be bought in most marine supply stores. I recently used it on a .030″ thin sheet of printed ABS for a surfboard repair where I cracked the nose. The plastic wets really well with the resin, and will increase stiffness. Epoxy resin is stronger than polyester but my board is a polyester so I used that. See picture below for my bulletproof surfboard repair. The thought is this may give the users of this thread some new ideas regarding these printed parts.



    Hiroshi Yamaura

    Hi Kyle,
    Thank you for the helpful tips!
    It must be used for stronger finger.

    I found it at Amazon.com


    Hi Kyle and Hiroshi,
    Thank you for sharing about the epoxy resin and the link. That’s interesting to know.
    We have also been thinking about a printer that uses stereolithography (SLA) technology (laser and liquid resin).
    If we try it, we’ll let you know the finding.
    By the way, we just delivered the purple hand to Delaney yesterday. We’ll keep you posted on the feedback from her.
    (This hand is actually made with the fund from Gazette Foundation.
    We’re trying to get more funding from the Indy Give! campaign.)


    Kyle Seleski

    I would only use SLA for nonstructural parts, I only use SLA at work for parts that will just be used for tabletop reviews. It can give good detail and dimensional accuracy but is very brittle. Now figuring out how to place metal rods in the grow vat and growing around that would be very cool indeed, and also very strong 🙂

    Just my 2 cents for whatever it’s worth. Someday I’ll be cool like you Satima and make a hackberry of my own.


    Thank you Kyle for the comment about the SLA. That’s good to know.
    Also thanks for your kind words. I’m sure you can make one of your own too.


    HbSocketU03 and the sensor unit with a 3d printed plate suggested by Hiroshi and his team.
    The sensor unit with the 3d printed plate works really well.
    HbSocketU03 is lighter and smaller, seems perfect for Delaney.
    We also found an elbow support that she said she might be able to wear for longer hours.
    We’ll try to add some velcro to the socket and the elbow support to provide more suspension.




    Beautiful !
    How did you print those Hackberry words on the ABS ?
    Where can I find the sensor plate discussions? I wish to know how it works too.


    Hiroshi Yamaura

    Hi Tima,
    Thank you for your update!
    It looks very nice.
    Adding loop is also good idea.

    Sorry, that information was not posted yet.
    I just updated the data and upload it to github.
    Please check this post.


    Thank you Ew and Hiroshi.
    Ew, the “exiii” and “HACKberry” are decals using a vinyl cutter. Basically, they are just stickers.
    Hiroshi and his team have been working very hard on this and are so generous to share it with others so I thought I’d like to give them the credit they deserve. I have been thinking of engraving the text on the 3D model but haven’t had a chance to do so.

    Hiroshi, what do you think about that by the way? I thinking engraving the text on it would look really nice.



    Hi Tima,

    Thanks for your decals info.
    Indeed, Hiroshi’s team generous enough to share it and I’m thinking of printing exiii words every hand I donated to my recipients. (I’m E-Nabe volunteer)



    Hi Ew,

    I think that’s a good idea and it’s nice of you to volunteer your time and effort to make the hand.

    We have been including the stickers with the kits we send out so hopefully we’ll be seeing it from other people sometime.



    Hi Tima,

    I’m in Asia country , some parts are hard to get here, thats why I need to order made some part locally in larger quantity. I’m thinking of supplying kits too, because I found that most of E-Nable volunteer can’t make this hand because of sourcing parts problem . Of course, I need to talk to Hiroshi and team , to get permission to do that. I still need some time to source all parts.
    Please let me know once your kit launch officially, I can have a look on your kits and try to follow the quality of your parts and everything. I’m also try to make some kind of small brass plate with engraved “exiii hackberry ” on it.

    I’m glad to see you are actually working on Hackberry kits. please keep us posted!


    Hi Ew,

    The sourcing parts for HACKberry is challenging. We just been providing surplus that we have in the US and Europe. We got few inquiries from Mexico and found out that it’s extremely difficult to ship the kit there. We also got couple inquiries from India for student projects.
    Sourcing parts is not the only thing that stop people from building the hand. If you want to provide the kit, you’ll probably have to provide some technical support as well. Be careful what you wish for 🙂


    Had to put together another hand quickly for a demo. This one is with the new thumb.

    I had the shaft holder for middle finger broken so had to do some quick fix to fuse broke part and added abs plate with acetone.






    Hi Satima, and friends,

    Since you guys already finished assembled the hand successfully, can you please check and see if the gap show below can be closed as shown without disturbing the fingers movements?



    вот чуть исправил кому надо пишите Antonov-Aleksandr88@mail.ru



    Hi Александр Антонов,

    I think you cannot add the piece on that two area because you need to insert pin from that area.


    была проблема с GCode и я просто соединил стенки . а отверстие сделаю руками



    Look at my printed parts, the black one is ABS, and white one is PLA, both have broken finger holder.

    View post on imgur.com

    View post on imgur.com


    Hi Александр and Ew,

    I appreciate your responses. I’m traveling right now and might be after my trip to get to this.
    Just don’t want you to think I ignore you if you don’t hear from me.
    Hiroshi is probably aware of this and I’m sure he’ll have a better solution.

    Ew, looks like your PLA and ABS palm base is from the previous design. I’ve never had that version broken before.
    Anyway, for the ABS one you can just fuse the broken piece back using acetone.
    Acetone doesn’t work with PLA so you might try to use some kind of epoxy for that.



    Hi Satima,

    No worries, just wish to share my problems so that everyone can discuss and hope it can be improve in near future. I will just print another one for my recipient. Yes, Acetone can be used as bonding agent for ABS, and it works very well.
    Александр actually beefed up the weaker point with holes for the pin. Worth to try.

    I printed the 2 palm from left hand folder, thats why its older version, I already flip / mirror the latest one for left hand. PETG will arrive by tomorrow and I will try to print and see if it is suitable or not.



    я уже распечатал


    Hiroshi Yamaura

    Hi Tima, Ew, Александр,

    Thank you for your discussions and feedback.
    I updated the data so that the middle finger’s shaft holder will not break.

    It may makes assembling a bit difficult but must be stronger than previous one.

    Please try the latest data.

    View post on imgur.com



    Hi Hiroshi,

    Thank you for fast update!


    этот палец работает? я могу его печатать?


    Hi Роман,

    All the fingers should work. They are good to print and assemble.


    One of our HACKberries will be at Rapid, Orlando Florida, USA this week,
    in case anyone in the area would like to stop by and check it out.
    It will be with Titan Robotics, booth# 781.


    Hiroshi Yamaura

    Sounds great! Please share the photos of the event when you have time. Hope all goes well!


    Hi Hiroshi,

    I’m sorry that Titan Robotics did not have a chance to take the photos.
    I was told there were a lot of people there and they were understaffed.


    Hiroshi Yamaura

    No problem. Thank you for your concern.


    Planning to lend this hand to Chase Your Dreams Foundation in Louisiana, USA.
    It has the handboard and electrical components from exiii.
    It also has a TPR-105 sensor from Cameron Norris (Wevolver).
    Thank you exiii and Wevolver.

    By the way, exiii is now selling HACKberry kits if anyone’s interested. https://www.facebook.com/exiii.jp

    Lending this hand to Chase Your Dreams Foundation in Louisiana, USA.
    HACKberry pcbs


    Hiroshi Yamaura

    Hi Tima, black and red HACKberry looks nice!
    Thank you for the report.

    BTW, old sensor’s output signal is opposite to that of latest sensor.
    Please tell Chase Your Dreams Foundation to use the following Arduino sketch.

    Edited points are as follows(242 lines).
    // sval = sval + analogRead(analogInPin0); for other SensorVoard
    sval = sval + abs(1023-analogRead(analogInPin0)); //for SensorBoard_v1_1

    sval = sval + analogRead(analogInPin0); //for other SensorVoard
    // sval = sval + abs(1023-analogRead(analogInPin0)); //for SensorBoard_v1_1


    Thank you Hiroshi,

    I did notice you reversed the sensor value a while back.
    And I did have the correct Arduino sketch for the TPR-105 for them.
    Since you and Cameron sent me the boards and the sensors, I just thought this is a great opportunity to recognize you guys’ generosity. Thank you.
    Black and red are their user’s color choices. Will keep you posted for more updates.


    Here is Delaney’s HACKberry with a traditional socket. We’re waiting for more feedback before making a 3D printed socket to avoid unnecessary plastic waste.
    The socket fits so snugly that the sensor unit can be strapped around the socket and still works. We’re yet to find out how long she can wear it.


    Hiroshi Yamaura

    Hi Tima,
    Great progress!!
    The hand looks good on Delaney! These photos are so nice.
    I’m happy to see Delaney’s smiling face again.
    Thank you for the update.
    Can she use the hand in daily life?

    As for 3D scan socket, we will post to this topic.

    Socket Fit

    Recently, traditional prosthetists are trying to make 3D scan socket.


    Hi Hiroshi,

    Thank you! I was happy to see her so happy too.

    She said the socket feels comfortable. We just gave it to her last week so I’m going to give her more time to see if it’s suitable for daily use before I spend time on the 3D socket. So far she thinks it’s good for daily use.


    The red-black HACKberry on Zack with Chase Treadway (Chase Your Dreams Foundation). Chase was trying to make a HACKberry for Zack.
    We found out that Chase is a quadriplegic so we lent this HACKberry to Zack to try out. I made it with the socket U03 because I thought Zack was a little boy.
    Chase said although the original HACKberry is a little small for Zack who is 6ft2, it really made a positive impact on him. Hope to make a bigger hand for Zack.

Viewing 68 posts - 1 through 68 (of 68 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.