Forum Replies Created

Viewing 85 posts - 1 through 85 (of 85 total)
  • Author
  • in reply to: Troubleshooting Finger Movement Problems. #1162

    After adding a polyswitch (I assumed you did), I wonder if you tried to run the servo before installing them in the hand to see if it works. Sounded like loose connection somewhere? The electronic kit and the servos were tested and proven to be working before being sent out.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #1085

    The red-black HACKberry on Zack with Chase Treadway (Chase Your Dreams Foundation). Chase was trying to make a HACKberry for Zack.
    We found out that Chase is a quadriplegic so we lent this HACKberry to Zack to try out. I made it with the socket U03 because I thought Zack was a little boy.
    Chase said although the original HACKberry is a little small for Zack who is 6ft2, it really made a positive impact on him. Hope to make a bigger hand for Zack.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #1080

    Hi Hiroshi,

    Thank you! I was happy to see her so happy too.

    She said the socket feels comfortable. We just gave it to her last week so I’m going to give her more time to see if it’s suitable for daily use before I spend time on the 3D socket. So far she thinks it’s good for daily use.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #1078

    Here is Delaney’s HACKberry with a traditional socket. We’re waiting for more feedback before making a 3D printed socket to avoid unnecessary plastic waste.
    The socket fits so snugly that the sensor unit can be strapped around the socket and still works. We’re yet to find out how long she can wear it.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #1026

    Thank you Hiroshi,

    I did notice you reversed the sensor value a while back.
    And I did have the correct Arduino sketch for the TPR-105 for them.
    Since you and Cameron sent me the boards and the sensors, I just thought this is a great opportunity to recognize you guys’ generosity. Thank you.
    Black and red are their user’s color choices. Will keep you posted for more updates.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #1021

    Planning to lend this hand to Chase Your Dreams Foundation in Louisiana, USA.
    It has the handboard and electrical components from exiii.
    It also has a TPR-105 sensor from Cameron Norris (Wevolver).
    Thank you exiii and Wevolver.

    By the way, exiii is now selling HACKberry kits if anyone’s interested.

    Lending this hand to Chase Your Dreams Foundation in Louisiana, USA.
    HACKberry pcbs

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #1018

    Hi Hiroshi,

    I’m sorry that Titan Robotics did not have a chance to take the photos.
    I was told there were a lot of people there and they were understaffed.

    in reply to: Printer settings #1017


    I just used the same settings I sent you before.
    You mentioned having trouble with the support materials on the palm base.
    You can change the setting for support so that it won’t be too close to the part and can be removed easily.
    Although sometimes it’s necessary to have the support materials close to the parts.

    You might want to try a different printing orientation instead. (see picture below).
    It’s better not to have the support material on the palm side. It takes longer and use more support materials but it saves a lot of time from sanding. I’m not a fan of plastic waste but for me it’s well worth it to print something that would receive more appreciation.

    To prevent delamination:
    For ABS, I used higher temperature for palm base, hot end/bed: 245/98.
    An enclosure for ABS help preventing draft. A simple one made from cardboard foam boards and duct tape works well.
    Just leave the power supply outside the enclosure.
    240/95 for other parts.

    Low printing speed gives smooth surface finish.

    In case anyone else is interested, you can find my settings for Taz5 and Cura17.10 here.
    You can view it with free download Cura or open it as a text file. The settings should work with other printers as well.
    Some tweaking might be needed.
    For layer height, I used 0.2 mm in general. Smaller layer height (1.4-1.8) for better details or for smaller parts if needed.
    Smaller nozzle size also helps with finer details but takes longer.
    If you still have problems, try filament from different manufacturers.

    Palm base printing orientation

    in reply to: Socket Fit #1003

    I just had a chance to watch Yoshiaki’s video. That looks great! Will try it.

    in reply to: Socket Fit #997

    Hiroshi and Yoshiaki,

    Delaney’s prosthetist wants to make a conventional socket for her to try and asked me to provided the below parts to him as well.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #967

    One of our HACKberries will be at Rapid, Orlando Florida, USA this week,
    in case anyone in the area would like to stop by and check it out.
    It will be with Titan Robotics, booth# 781.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #966

    Hi Роман,

    All the fingers should work. They are good to print and assemble.

    in reply to: EXiii Assembly and Hardwahe #906

    Hi there,

    Like it was mentioned, Hiroshi has a pretty good list and links in his BOM.
    However, if you’re interested in a complete part kit, send us an email at
    We’re located in Colorado Springs, Colorado.

    in reply to: PCB Collision with capacitors #898

    You’re welcome Hiroshi.
    Some people seem to have trouble with the electronics so we decided to include the complete built pcbs with the kits to help people speed up their progress and may backtrack from there to try to understand your schematics.

    I thought I had to modify the palmbase to drop the converter down a little bit.
    However, I didn’t have to (to make it work) so I didn’t think of worrying about it for the full scale hand.
    Without modifying the 3d data, shortening the bosses (mounting hole for the converter) a little bit, would help.
    Some of them have the capacitors sticking up a little bit,
    so re-soldering and moving the capacitors down to flush on the pcb (converter) will help also.
    It’s a little tight in there but it works.

    in reply to: Report from Polish organization vBionic #897

    Nice job vBionic!

    Thanks for sharing Hiroshi.

    in reply to: PCB Collision with capacitors #895

    Hi Jose,
    Congratulations! Nice to finally see your working HACKberry.
    I ran out of smaller wires so you might try to redo the wires with smaller/softer stranded wires to make the assembling easier.
    It should fit just fine.

    Hi Hiroshi,
    Here’s the link to the DC-DC converter.
    The capacitors that came with it are slightly different from those show in the picture but they seem to be ok.
    Here’s how it looks inside the palm.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #759

    Hi Александр and Ew,

    I appreciate your responses. I’m traveling right now and might be after my trip to get to this.
    Just don’t want you to think I ignore you if you don’t hear from me.
    Hiroshi is probably aware of this and I’m sure he’ll have a better solution.

    Ew, looks like your PLA and ABS palm base is from the previous design. I’ve never had that version broken before.
    Anyway, for the ABS one you can just fuse the broken piece back using acetone.
    Acetone doesn’t work with PLA so you might try to use some kind of epoxy for that.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #748

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #745

    Had to put together another hand quickly for a demo. This one is with the new thumb.

    I had the shaft holder for middle finger broken so had to do some quick fix to fuse broke part and added abs plate with acetone.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #742

    Hi Ew,

    The sourcing parts for HACKberry is challenging. We just been providing surplus that we have in the US and Europe. We got few inquiries from Mexico and found out that it’s extremely difficult to ship the kit there. We also got couple inquiries from India for student projects.
    Sourcing parts is not the only thing that stop people from building the hand. If you want to provide the kit, you’ll probably have to provide some technical support as well. Be careful what you wish for 🙂

    in reply to: Development of HandBoard_v2 #737

    Hi Ew,

    My friend Don couldn’t wait to have fun so he went ahead to have the prototype handboard V2 with the LED just to show that it can be done. It did not suggest the final version of V2.

    I was thinking of printing glow in the dark buttons too. In fact our first prototype black-white hand, the battery door is glow in the dark. When the light is off at night, it really glows. From our experience with Delaney, our HACKberry user, she learns to press the buttons without looking at them very quickly so I skipped it for now. Although, it might be fun to make a glow in the dark hand.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #735

    Hi Ew,

    I think that’s a good idea and it’s nice of you to volunteer your time and effort to make the hand.

    We have been including the stickers with the kits we send out so hopefully we’ll be seeing it from other people sometime.

    in reply to: S03N servo substitute #731

    You’re welcome.

    Hiroshi, would you try 3001HB with ABS gears?

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #729

    Thank you Ew and Hiroshi.
    Ew, the “exiii” and “HACKberry” are decals using a vinyl cutter. Basically, they are just stickers.
    Hiroshi and his team have been working very hard on this and are so generous to share it with others so I thought I’d like to give them the credit they deserve. I have been thinking of engraving the text on the 3D model but haven’t had a chance to do so.

    Hiroshi, what do you think about that by the way? I thinking engraving the text on it would look really nice.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #721

    HbSocketU03 and the sensor unit with a 3d printed plate suggested by Hiroshi and his team.
    The sensor unit with the 3d printed plate works really well.
    HbSocketU03 is lighter and smaller, seems perfect for Delaney.
    We also found an elbow support that she said she might be able to wear for longer hours.
    We’ll try to add some velcro to the socket and the elbow support to provide more suspension.

    in reply to: S03N servo substitute #708

    Hi Ew,

    I have been using 3001HB. It seems to work very well.
    ES08MD barely has enough torque for the three fingers.

    in reply to: Thumb design is changed! #698

    Hi Hiroshi,

    Sorry I wasn’t clear. You’re right, the parts tightly fit with the screw.

    I had some abs plastic failed around the screw thread before so I was just concerned about the material fatigue at this location where it’s subject to repeated loading and unloading. However, it might not be the case here. Maybe I worried too much.

    About the printer accuracy, I didn’t realize that this would be an issue when I made my parts. But you’re right again. I have had people who got the HACKberry kits from me told me they had trouble fitting parts together. I thought I just shared how I fixed that but apparently it wasn’t the right place or timing to share. Sorry for the confusion 🙂

    Thank you for the video.

    in reply to: Thumb design is changed! #690

    Hi Hiroshi,

    Hmmm… you have good points there. That is very thoughtful to keep the list of materials required as little as possible.

    Keeping the parts separate is probably more beneficial as opposed to gluing them anyway. In case if one breaks, we wouldn’t have to reprint both of them.

    Speaking of the accuracy of the 3d printed parts, I did have that problem in the beginning. With the printer default setting or the quick print setting, the printed parts wouldn’t fit well. They seem to be too big and too thick to fit together.

    Tweaking some printer settings like the printing speed, the filament feed/flow and temperature seems to help. The parts dimensions seem to be very accurate and fit well together without a whole lot of extra work (like sanding and filing to make them fit). It makes the assembly a lot more pleasant. However, now I wonder if this causes my parts to be really really loose with these settings.

    in reply to: Thumb design is changed! #675

    Hi Tetsuya,

    The connection between HbThumbProximalPhalanx02 and HbThumbProximalPhalanxBase02 seems to be loose and they would have to rely on a screw or a pin to stay connected, which is probably fine. However, I thought that might be a week point for daily use.

    I wonder why you didn’t make the fitting between the two a little tighter.

    I used a tighter tolerance on the last thumb and it didn’t need an extra part to connect them together. The insert is 3X10mm and the hole is 3.20X10.20mm. I thought I posted my parts here in case you’re interested.

    For what I had, the worse is I would glue them with acetone (for ABS only) or superglue for PLA but it didn’t seem necessary.

    Anyway, you must have a reason for having the new thumb the way it is. I wonder what that is.

    in reply to: Development of HandBoard_v2 #674

    Hi Hiroshi,

    We’re not using this power jack to avoid having to cut the slots. The pcb serviced here in the US don’t like slots.

    in reply to: Development of HandBoard_v2 #673

    Hi Chengji,

    Thanks for offering to help. I’ll let you know if I have trouble getting something.

    in reply to: Need Help With 3D Printing the Parts #672

    Hello Victorino,

    I use ABS. PLA is more brittle so some parts might break easily. I responded to Alexander (Александр) here.

    in reply to: Thumb design is changed! #670

    Hi Tetsuya and Hiroshi,

    The new thumb looks really nice!

    in reply to: Thumb design is changed! #669

    Hi Александр,

    I think the problem is the material you use. You mentioned in another post that you used PLA.
    PLA seems harder but it actually brittle. It has only a tiny bit of give (elasticity).

    I heard some people use carburetor cleaner vapor or warm water (70°C or around 160°F) to treat PLA parts to make them softer. I haven’t tried it so I don’t know how long you should treat them. You can try it if you’d like.
    They might be too soft if you do it too long.

    in reply to: Need Help With 3D Printing the Parts #668

    Hi Александр,

    Did you ask which printing orientations I would use for the new thumb? This is how I would print them.

    in reply to: Smartphone processing #652

    Hi Carlo,

    HACKberry does not use smartphone. It uses Arduino Micro and an infrared sensor (IR sensor).
    So far I have used QRD1114, QRE1113, SG-105 and TPR-105.
    All of them work without any modification to the software on Github.
    The last 3 sensors has better dimensions to fit inside the sensor holder.

    Note: TPR-105 is the original sensor exiii uses. I would assume that you can try whatever you can find in your area and it’ll probably work too (seeing the way exiii’s software was written)

    in reply to: Need Help With 3D Printing the Parts #650

    Hi Александр Антонов,

    That the same printing orientation I use.

    in reply to: Assembling #639

    Hi Victorino,

    To answer your question, yes the self-tapping screws will cut their own threads when they are screwed in with pressure the same as you would use wood or metal screws. It might help to re-drill the holes to 1.6 mm for M2 and 2.5 mm for M3 to prevent cracking or splitting the plastic layers. You can try to make some bosses for the screw holes a little bigger but some of them don’t have room for that and I’m not sure if it would help much.

    I paint some acetone lightly on some small bosses and skinny parts to strengthen them although Kyle doesn’t it’s a good idea, see his post here He suggested epoxy resin.

    He might be right but that works for me so far. It’s a lazy way. It’s doesn’t need any post-processing and it looks good. No problem so far. Just don’t over do it.

    For M3 holes that are impossible to be re-drilled. I just apply acetone on them and let them cure over night. Acetone only works with ABS though.

    Kentaro used some kind of epoxy glue. (

    Hope this helps.

    in reply to: Socket Fit #633

    Hi Hiroshi,

    The socket looks a little loose and won’t stay on Delaney’s arm, although not as much as the socket in post #615. Sorry I don’t have the picture showing the socket on Delaney’s arm yet (still waiting for the pictures from her parents).
    Are we supposed to have some kind of sleeve on Delaney’s arm before sliding the socket over it? Is that sleeve supposed to help keeping the socket stay attached?

    I have only seen a conventional prosthetic socket that is very tight on the skin to stay attached without having anything in between. I guess that might prevent me from understanding this arrangement.

    in reply to: Socket Fit #631

    By the way, I didn’t think the sensor on the socket is a good idea either. Seeing how the weight of the hand can cause the muscles to flex in the way that interferes with the sensor when I didn’t get the velcro attachment on quite right. A lot of people try to talk me into it. I’m glad you confirmed that.

    in reply to: Socket Fit #628

    Hi Hiroshi,
    Here’s the socket you made (#619). Looks very nice. Thank you!
    We’ll try it on Delaney and let you know how it fits.

    Also, with the permission from Delaney and her parents, here’s the link to the stl files of Delaney’s arm scans if anyone would like an access to them.

    in reply to: Socket Fit #622

    Hi Hiroshi,
    Your socket looks great!
    I’d like to print this one out and try it on her.
    We don’t know until we try and then we’ll be one step closer to knowing what we should do, right?
    The socket in post #615 looks quite loose with the big cutout on the arm whose is wearing it in the pictures. If that remains attached, maybe it’ll work with Delaney.
    Thank you very much for your help, Hiroshi! Hope you continue to help.

    in reply to: Socket Fit #617

    Hiroshi, I’ll send you the data. Thank you for offering to help.
    We plan to work on the socket option as well. The velcro option was the quick solution for the newscast.
    Cameron and I have been discussing about Delaney’s socket. Cameron is concerned about Delaney’s wrist movement. Anyway, I’m looking into a socket that has some space to allow her wrist movement.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #614

    Thank you Kyle for the comment about the SLA. That’s good to know.
    Also thanks for your kind words. I’m sure you can make one of your own too.

    in reply to: Separated thumb #611

    You’re welcome Hiroshi. Thank you. I’m glad it helps!

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #610

    Hi Kyle and Hiroshi,
    Thank you for sharing about the epoxy resin and the link. That’s interesting to know.
    We have also been thinking about a printer that uses stereolithography (SLA) technology (laser and liquid resin).
    If we try it, we’ll let you know the finding.
    By the way, we just delivered the purple hand to Delaney yesterday. We’ll keep you posted on the feedback from her.
    (This hand is actually made with the fund from Gazette Foundation.
    We’re trying to get more funding from the Indy Give! campaign.)

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #605

    Hi Hiroshi, Thank you! I prefer the raw look from the 3D printing so I didn’t do the acetone vapor bath on whole hand, just painted acetone on the parts that are prone to failure. The black arm unit looks shiny in the picture but it just the way it came out (no acetone treatment there).

    Thank you for the tip on the steel printing. We’ve been thinking about the metal printing too. I haven’t had any problem with the gears but if anything breaks, I will try that.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #601

    To clarify about the thumb, I didn’t not change the design. I just separated the thumb into 2 parts for printing purposes.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #600

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #599

    Just finished the second HACKberry. The exact locations of the switches on the pcb make it easy to assemble the buttons and back cover. This version seems much stronger compared to the one released around July. The new thumb (with some silicone rubber pads) can really grasp bigger objects like water bottles or soda cans firmly. I modified and separated the new thumb into 2 parts to have a strong fitting and aesthetic ​appeal with the 3D printing, planned to glue them with acetone (for ABS) but they have a very good friction fit so I left them alone. We use 100% infill for most parts and paint some acetone on some small bosses and skinny parts to strengthen them. The purple-grey HACKberry will be given to our 13 year-old user, Delaney. We’re working with Delaney’s Prosthetist and hope to be able to deliver the hand to Delaney soon.

    in reply to: Development of HandBoard_v2 #558

    Hiroshi, I wonder if you used the files produced by ki-cad to make the pcb you posted at If so, did you have to make any change to have the slots cut for the power jack and through holes for sensor jacks? The purple pcbs shown in ( were from your ki-cad files back in (around) August. The ki-cad file seems to show the slots but no slot on the pcb.

    in reply to: Assembling #527

    Hiroshi, according to, you have the sensor strapped on the lower part of the arm. I wonder if the users there can actually use that part of the arm to control the hand. I also wonder how long they can wear the hand with the pressure from the 2 straps (the arm and sensor). Have you heard any feedback on this matter from the users there? Can you share the link to where to get the same elbow support? I have seen the videos of the HACkbery users moving the hand around comfortably and I’m still trying to produce the same result. Can you also explain how you use the HbUpperArmCover01.stl? Thank you.

    in reply to: Development of HandBoard_v2 #493

    Hiroshi, I’m not sure if we can find the power jack with a power lever here. It seems to me that we have to get it from China. Do you think a panel mount power switch can be placed somewhere on the arm unit instead?
    It’ll probably take a while to get the handboard v2 finalized and produced so having the current pcb kits available right away will encourage people to continue building HACKberry instead of having to wait for version 2. Are you going to include the sensor jack with the kit? I haven’t been able to find the sensor jack you specify in BOM. The best I can find is the following surface-mount jack.
    The through-hole jack below is easier to get here.
    Don can send you the schematics soon.

    in reply to: Development of HandBoard_v2 #485

    Thank you Hiroshi. We’ve also been discussing about the placement of the sensor jack and the usb port. The following figures show the general locations where we think the sensor jack and the usb port could be. Let us know your thought.

    Will your intern Yuta be the one who involves with the new pcb work? Have you or Yuta tried Altium to see if you can use it?

    in reply to: Development of HandBoard_v2 #477

    While waiting for more information, Don Vukovic made the first working prototype handboard. This is not final. We’re working on integrating the dc-dc converter. However, we’re using the new smaller converter for now because we have not been able to locate all required components. We’ll be changing switch locations that will be provided by Hiroshi. It seems like the usb port might be moved so that it can be accessed from the wrist end unless anyone has a better location for it.
    Hiroshi, we’ll be sending you one to help with the communication.
    The First Working Prototype Handboard V2
    DC-DC converter comparison

    in reply to: Development of HandBoard_v2 #460

    Hiroshi, that’s a good idea. It helps calibration much easier.
    By the way, we can integrate the dc-dc converter into the new handboard with some protection. However it’ll probably be more expensive than using the converter module like the one you suggested if one wants to make just a few. It gets cheaper if produced in a big quantity. It will definitely make HACKberry easier to build and free up some space. It comes down to what the community wants.
    We’re also investigating this smaller converter,
    This is not to suggest that we should use it but to keep all options open for now.

    in reply to: Development of HandBoard_v2 #446

    Hiroshi, you’re right, we don’t need the RESET button. The simpler, the better.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #444

    Certainly, I thought of that too.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #437

    Hiroshi, thanks for the servo current and battery info. Don uses Altium. If your intern wants to use other software, we can send you what you need so you can do it with the software you want to use.

    in reply to: buy Hardware #436

    Thank you for the correction, Nathaniel.

    in reply to: buy Hardware #434
    in reply to: buy Hardware #433

    Nathanie, I gathered the links to where we got the harware for HACKberry in the US. We still have yet to try the springs. The torsion spring we got for our first HACKberry is too big for the current design.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #426

    OK Hiroshi, we have another thought (the third one). We’re looking into combining the converter to the new pcb board.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #424

    Hiroshi, Can you send me a sketch that shows the positions of the buttons, LEDs and RESET that you have in mind?

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #423

    Hiroshi, I’m glad you think it’s a good idea. We thought about combining the converter to the pcb but now we have a second thought. In case the converter blows up, it’s cheaper to fix if the converter is separate from the pcb. We would like to work with you for the new positions of the buttons, LEDS and RESET. and yes, it is better if you provide the new 3D data. It will be a big help because you know this hand better than anyone else 🙂 Will it saves you some time if we go over some sketches back and forth few times and we produce a set of the pcb to send you to finalize the 3D data?

    We have been looking into the requirements for the servos to battery capacity but can’t find any specs for the current these servos require. We have seen the spec of 4.8-6.0 VDC for these servos. We’re also looking for real life accounts of the battery life. If you have any more info about DMW-BLF19 to send us, that’s be great!

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #421

    I’m working with Don on the next version of the pcb for HACKberry that will have a microcontroller directly embedded on the pcb hand board. To free up more space inside the hand and to reduce the cost, we plan to use the ATmega328-p (TQFP-32) and a CH340G (SOIC-16; USB to Serial). We think that not having few things from the Arduino Micro that we don’t need for HACKberry, the hand will operate longer on a single battery.

    We also want to mount the pcb on the back cover instead to make sure that all switches work properly before wrapping it up. With this setup and some modification, we hope the pcb will be high enough so that we don’t need to cut the rectangular hole in the middle for the servo fixture and so we have more room on the pcb to add more stuff. We’d also want to add some LEDs, ex. power light/life meter, error light and a reset button that can be accessed from the outside. If anyone would like to provide an input, we’d like to hear from you.

    in reply to: Assembling #417

    Hello Khun Pined, I’m glad to hear someone in Thailand is working on a HACKberry. I hope it will reach people who are in need of bionic hands like HACKberry. I wonder if you have been able to source all the components there. Good luck and have fun!

    in reply to: TPR-105 IR Sensor in the US #416

    Simon, to answer on the behalf of Gregory, we were supposed to get 3,000 TPR-105 from the manufacturer in Taiwan but they got affected by the Typhoon in August and looks like they got hit again about a week ago. We really don’t know at this point if we’re going to get the sensors anytime soon. We use QRD1114 for our first HACKberry hand and it works so far. It acts up once in a while but we haven’t figured out what actually caused it yet. We modified the sensor holder so we don’t have to use a thicker cushion (QRD1114 is 3.2 mm thicker). You can get it from sparkfun. Since you’re in Boulder, you can just walk in and pick it up so you don’t have to pay the shipping.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #415

    Hiroshi, I’m glad to hear there was another Ted talk about the HACKberry. More people need to know about your bionic hand. I would love to see the video of Bram’s Ted talk in Madrid. I’ll let you know when they have the video of Clay Guillory (Titan Robotics).
    Cameron, thank you but it’s actually Hiroshi and his team who invented and share their amazing work with us. I just copied their work. I’ll let you know when we have the new version of pcbs made. We would love to work with you to create a socket for Delaney. She likes the velcro attachment in the summer but the socket would be good for the winter. I’ll send you the 3D scan. Thanks Cameron!

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #380

    HACKberry at TEDxArenaCircle in Loveland Colorado, 9-26-15.
    HACKberry with Titan Robotics at TEDx

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #379

    Diana, if you send an email to and ask for me. We can arrange to send what we have to help you move forward.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #376

    Hi Diana, we have 3 copies of the pcb boards, have them made at OSH Park with the gerber files created from the kicad files but haven’t had a chance to try them yet. You can get them from us or we can send the files to you so you can have the boards made yourself. If you want to try to build them from a perfboard, Hiroshi posted the schematics in pdf format here ( I used these schematics and the pictures on post#184 ( We’ll be at the Ted Talk in Loveland, CO, this Sat. If you plan to be there or visit us down here sometime, we can talk more.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #373

    Hiroshi, I wish you could see all the smiling faces there. Thanks to you and your team again for making this hand available to the world!

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #371

    Here’s the video of Delaney showing off her HACKbery at What If Festival in Colorado Spring, Colorado, USA last Saturday.

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #364

    First pcbs

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #363

    in reply to: Reports from Pikes Peak Makerspace #362

    First PPM HACKberry

    in reply to: Sensor board #353

    Hello Hiroshi, I wonder what kind of cushion/foam you use on the sensor unit. We have to get it online, it would help to order the right materials. Thank you./Tima

    in reply to: Assembling #315

    Hiroshi, The large servo (analog HD-3001HB) has plastic gear train. You mentioned that it’s a must to use servos with metal gear (post-184). Have you or anyone found a substitution for the discontinued servo GWS S03N 2BB Standard Servo that meet the requirements?

    in reply to: Assembling #314

    Hi Scott, Welcome to the community. I have been using whatever it takes to remove the supports (pliers, flat screw driver, knifes). All the parts with curved surfaces, I stand them up to print. Try not to have curved surfaces touched the bed or supports and they came out really good. Another thing I found is the natural white ABS filament seems to hide imperfection really well. With these tricks, I haven’t had to do any sanding.

    in reply to: Assembling #271
    in reply to: Assembling #258
    in reply to: buy Hardware #257

    Hiroshi, I’m glad to know you support our idea. It’s been time consuming and costly to get all the parts we need in the US. I really hope we can make it happen so other makers don’t need to go through this. I just saw the garber data and the figure you uploaded. That’s very helpful. We’ll let you know if we need anymore assistance.

    in reply to: buy Hardware #243

    Hello Yue, Pikes Peak Makerspace in Colorado Springs, Colorado, is talking about getting hardware and electronics (springs, screws, bearings,the IR sensor – TPR-105 etc.) in bulk so they can distribute them to help US makers build HACKberry hands easier. They are non-profit and have a volunteer program to make the hands for kids. They plan to make the pcb for the electronics also. If enough people are interested in getting these parts from them, they got some grant money to do so. You can contact them at

    in reply to: Sensor board #186

    Hi Hiroshi, My name is Tima and I got involved with couple groups of makers in Colorado, USA to make 3D prosthetic/bionic hands for kids as part of the e-NABLING the Future volunteer program. It is very nice of you guys to make exiii-HACKberry hand open-source so that more people can have an access to this cool hand.

    We almost got all the parts for a hand printed. I’m gathering parts you listed in your BOM spreadsheet and haven’t been able to find the IR sensor TPR-105 in the US, however found couple different ones (QRD1114 and RPR220). I’m wondering if there is a criteria for selecting an IR sensor for the HACKberry hand muscle sensing. Would either QRD1114 or RPR220 work? I attached the links to the datasheet of these sensors below.

Viewing 85 posts - 1 through 85 (of 85 total)